Day 12 (16.7 mi) Outerbridge Shelter: Happy Newt Day!

I was very anxious about hiking in the rain, and the forecast was calling for lots of it.  I am fairly amazed at how many people go on long distance hikes, or any backpacking trip for that matter, and do not check the forecast.  I will also somewhat shamelessly admit that having an iPhone doesn't help my obsession of checking the radar.  I must have checked it 20x between the hours of 4.30am (when I awoke) and 6.30am (when I left the shelter).  Yes, a bit much, I agree.

Much to my relief, the weather didn't actually stir up until about 10am.  By then I had hiked over half of my day's journey.  As the rain fell, I could feel my own internal longing for a place to rest (and get dry).  There were lots of rocks along the route (go figure), and I took it especially slow when i met them considering the previous day's cranial interaction with rocks.  There were two major climbs down the rocky faces where I was climbing as much as I was hiking.  In reality, the forecast was not as brutal as what I had imagined.
The upside to the damp weather was the appearance of red newts.  If I was answering a multiple choice question prior to my hike about the presence of red newts in PA, I would have certainly answered false.  Nothing could be further from the truth.  I must have seen 100, and it was delightful.  Red newts had always been like the Yeti in my childhood; mysterious and elusive, and the pictures that I saw of them were met with deep skepticism.  Yet now, I have seen them on three different occasions in three different states.  They really do thrive in the foggiest of days, when the humidity is well over 100%.  Honestly, there were stretches where I had to consciously watch my step that I did not trample them.
Through out the day, the weather turned progressively better as did the terrain, apart from the final descent into Lehigh Gap.  I hiked the SuperFund mountaintop that was aparently damaged from some zinc mining accident.  Lehigh Gap was as precarious as anything I have hiked on the AT, and I was very thankful that I missed the PM rain while on the rocky precipice.  A quick mile uphill into the shelter left me with an entire afternoon to dry out at Outerbridge shelter.  A very interesting spring into a cut out aluminum pony keg was also a relief.  I spent the night with Sargent Sawyer who was also a short section hiker (4 nights) with thoughts of hiking the entire trail.  Someone had left a heap of snacks- power bars, pb crackers, and other goodies.  It is really fun to eat other people's food, and I really needed the extra calories.  I was certainly back into trail mode, regarding my calorie burning.  A day of steady rain was aided by the red newts, and my spirits did not dampen.

Day 11 (13.8 mi), 8 MAY, Leroy Smith Shelter: On the Trail Again

I woke up early (5 AM) and started to prepare for my first real day on the Trail in almost a week.  I had done some practice hikes at home with a full pack, and the 6.5 miles the day before had begun to break me in for the PA terrain.  It is rocky here and the most detrimental effect is the way my pace is slowed by the rocks.  Yesterday, I kept thinking I had missed the shelter because my pace had slowed so considerably.  The hiking is not too difficult, but it just feels like it takes a long time to get anywhere.  Water is more scarce on the AT in PA also, which makes the hiking a little heavier because I carry more water than normal.  One trade-off that I had made was to bring my "summer bag" because it is somewhat lighter and more waterproof than the down bag I carried a few weeks earlier.
I heard that below Duncannon (Day 6) the terrain was much smoother, and I was thankful because many of my long days (18+ miles) were South of D'cannon.  With the threat of rain the following days, I actually stopped at Leroy Smith so I wouldn't have to pack a wet tent.  It really is THAT rocky, and there are times where I would be rock walking for miles (over an hour on pure rocky terrain).  I think of the rocks in PA in three distinct sizes ("small pebbles", not really a problem; "boulders", which would slow anyone down; and "thinkers", those medium sized rocks that require every attentive moment to choose my footing wisely).  It is the "thinkers" that drive me crazy, and that slow me down considerably.  Day 2 had plenty of "thinkers".
I made it to the shelter in the early afternoon, and I had plenty of time to write and read.  Unfortunately, that is something I had not done very much of the previous weeks in MD, and it began a pleasant pattern that persisted through the week.  I don't know if it just takes "that long" to get into a habit of discipline or if it takes that long to realize that writing is a necessary activity out here.  The topic of humility consumed my thoughts over the weeks in PA, and there is plenty of opportunity to practice the humiliation, which is the parent of any true humility.  I fell on Day 2 and "headed" a rock.  Thankfully, it wasn't too bad and there wasn't anyone around when I bit it.  In the immortal words of St. Bernard, "I prefer a defeat borne humbly than a victory obtained by pride."

Day 10, 7 MAY, The Journey before The Journey

As the portions of the AT that I have not hiked push further and further away from Salem, the challenge of transportation to the trailhead becomes more difficult.  Hiking southbound provides the advantage of a shorter drive home at the tail end of the trip.  Therefore, the specific challenge for the two week hike across PA was to find a ride to the Delaware Water Gap at the NJ-PA line.
     Enter Duff Rearick and Graham Fenton.  Duff is the father of one of my best friends in Salem and colleague at Roanoke, Matt Rearick.  Graham is a good friend (and student) at Roanoke who lives in PA.  They are the real reason that I was even able to make the hike.  I drove up to the Rearick's home early in the AM from SAL, where Graham met me.  Then Graham and I were able to spend some quality time driving across the state.  One of the highlights for Graham and I was visiting a super-cooled cave that was used by Native Americans for refrigeration. (YES, it was THAT cold.)

     If you've never been to the Delaware Water Gap (and I hadn't), it is ominous.  The sheer enormity and hardness of a sheet of rock that has not submitted to the rolling and seemingly eternal waters of the Delaware.  It was certainly one of the highlights of the trip, and I had barely walked a mile.  In climbing those initial miles view a continual view of the Gap, I almost tripped several times.  It is one of those natural wonders that commands attention; the Delaware Water Gap is mesmerizing.  If you are ever driving I-80 at the NJ-PA line, you should definitely take the exit and the few minutes to stop and stare.  What a great way to start an adventure.  I made it to the Kitredge shelter in plenty of time to enjoy dinner and the sunset.

A Short Reprieve for a Great Reason

Here's a picture of my friend, Ashlee Lakin, and Marianne.  It was March when this picture was taken, but they are already thinking about the traditional "Women's Beach Trip", which typically happens in May.  When Marianne told me that they were planning the trip for the first of May, it was no problem to rearrange the hiking plan for her to be able to go.  She really enjoys the time, and I am glad we have the friends who want her to go with them.  Even though I really don't know what goes on during their time (you should ask her sometime), I think trips like these are really important.  As parents, it is important to refresh one's mind and spirit with great conversation and laughter among peers.  As spouses, it is important to have time apart and be reminded of the good things in life.  I will always support my wife getting away from the craziness that so often surrounds her (craziness = the 5 other people she lives with).  That time makes us better people and a better family.  Wooo-hoooo.

Glorious Day 9, 29 APR, Big Meadows VA (15.5mi)

No matter how many miles I hike, no matter how long I have been out on the trail, I am always glad to reach the final goal.  It is a feeling of accomplishment at what lays behind me, and an anticipation of seeing the familiar things and people that make life comfortable.  It is not a matter of being tired of hiking or of homesickness.  For me personally, it was an opportunity to complete the state of VA, which contains my home and over 500 miles of the AT (except for 4 miles at Turk's Gap).
Another restaurant on the trail provided my morning meal, a brunch buffet at Skyland Resort with Cobweb and Magnolio.  I had told myself that I was going to go lite for breakfast (just coffee and a bagel), but you know how that one went.  I will have to say that the buffet was amazing, the coffee was excellent, and I had a dinner muffin AND a dessert muffin.  Of course, when sitting in the restaurant, I was oblivious to the fact that I had a good 11 miles remaining.  My reward was to belch up breakfast for the next 10 miles.  Nice.
Slipping off the boots, hearing the engine start of the beloved Civic, and being able to drive the distance it took me 9 days to walk are all somewhat surreal moments at the end of a hike.  I am always thankful for the people who make these events happen for me - loving parents and extra-loving wife.  Be back in 5 days for Part 2 of the 2012 AT Hike-o-rama.

Day 8-D, 28 APR, Things you don't do in Shelters

We had heard that Byrd's Nest #4 had a fireplace in the shelter.  Standing in Elkswallow wayside, there were smore packets, hot dogs, and fire logs.  Magnolio made the comment about roasting marshmallows, and the event took on a life of its own.  Since I was hiking out tomorrow, I agreed to carry the extra 3 lbs to ensure that we had a good start to the fire (bec the wood was damp from the rain).  Cobweb confessed that he had never eaten a s'more (he is 50 mind you), and Magnolio bought the most unconventional pre-packaged s'mores that included roasting sticks.  To top it off, Cobweb also purchased hot dogs and buns.  These are things that one does when they go car camping, not thru-hiking on the AT.  It was glorious, and a fitting way to spend our last night together on the AT.
Cobweb is no longer a s'more virgin.  These are the memories and experiences that make hiking on the AT so permanent and lasting.  I am planning to meet Cobweb this weekend in the Smokies as he makes the 200 miles of his journey Southward.  The connections are so deep because of the difficulty required to achieve the goals of hiking hundreds (and even thousands) of miles.

Day 8-C, 28 APR, What's in a Name?

Another hallmark of AT thru-hiking is the establishment of a proper "trail name."  Many hikers walk together for weeks on the trail and never even exchange their given names.  Oftentimes, hikers receive (or proclaim) their trail names within the first 24 hours.  For a long time, I thought a trail name could only be given by other hikers walking with them.  However to an ever-increasing degree, I have noticed more and more thru-hikers who have given themselves a trail name.  Other examples of trail names that I remember are "Flipper", "Arrowhead", "La Tortuga", and "Tumbleweed."
One of the disadvantages of section hiking, and especially southbound section hiking, is that I am often not on the trail long enough and/or with enough people for more than 12 hours to receive a trail name.  However, being with Cobweb and Magnolio for a number of days brought up the conversation of trail names and sent my mind decidedly to establish my own.  With the agreement of my new hiking friends, I settled on the name "Humble Pi."  There are several reasons why such a name fits me well.  1) I am prone to forget some of the most basic elements of hiking gear.  There was the time I forgot to pack any extra clothes. (Fortunately, it was just a weekend trip adn the weather was warm.)  I have also forgotten maps of the terrain. (Again, fortunately the AT is well-marked with white blazes.) Most recently on this trip, I actually forgot my eating utensil.  2) I get lost often and lose sight of the seemingly ubiquitous white blazes.  This happens especially when the trail moves to more urban areas, and it is especially embarrassing to walk around in circles looking for a white blaze on a street sign or telephone pole.  3) I make terrible predictions about the remaining distance to the shelter, as well as the weather for upcoming days.  For this particular trip, I made the bold and incorrect prediction that the front would merely blow over. (That was extremely wrong.)
Long distance hiking is a continual invitation to meet my own weakness, my own inability to solve problems, and my neediness and fragility.  All of these realizations speak to the concept of humility, which usually comes about through the process of humiliation.  The AT is replete with instances of humiliation, and I have learned to welcome it as a natural part of the process.  Eating a daily slice of humble pie is not necessarily something I look forward to, but I have accepted it as normal.

Day 8-B, 28 APR, Food, Glorious Food

One of the best parts of any long distance hikes (and particularly AT section hikes) is the food options located directly on the trail.  Most of these are located at "trail towns" (places like Damascus, VA, or Hot Springs, NC), but Shenandoah NP has these special places called "waysides."  Since the park is frequented by a variety of nature enthusiasts, the waysides are basically stock for car campers, trinkets and bathrooms for the driving sightseers, and filling stations for thru-hikers.  It's really kind of sad how the thought of food (not trail food, but "real food") dominates one's thinking as a form of motivation.  As you may have guessed, Day 8 (and Day 9) presented us with the opportunity to visit SNP's Waysides.
I was also excited to get out of the rain.  It was a misty but constant drizzle on the morning of Day 8 when we rolled into the Elkwallow Wayside.  We had hiked over 6 miles in less than two hours. (>3 mph is the break point for me as to whether I am hiking "fast," so I knew that I was looking forward to charging my phone, drinking untreated water, getting dry and warm, and getting something "real" to eat.  We were not disappointed.  I had the biggest sausage, egg, and cheese bagel ever and a significant order of unsalted fries (awesome).  After 4 cups of "real" coffee (the first in over a week), I was ready to walk (or so I thought).  I always eat more than I want to eat at these trail towns, and there is invariably a huge uphill directly after the trail town.  However, I can never seem to remember while I am visiting the wayside how much I hate belching sausage-egg-and-cheese for (at least) four subsequent hours.

Day 8-A, 28 APR, Byrd's Nest #4 (18.3 mi)

Another highlight of hiking the AT is the variety of people that I meet on any trip of longer than a few days.  In particular, it is especially fun to find folks that hike a similar pace and/or have similar mileage goals.  This means that I will have sustained time with the same person or group of people. (To get a really clear picture of how this principle can bring together people who are quite diverse, you should definitely watch the movie, The Way with Martin Sheen.)  Although I met Cobweb and Magnolio (the male form of Magnolia?) on Day 4, I was excited to see familiar faces on the evening of Day 7 (it is especially encouraging on a day with bad weather).  They are pictured to the left with Cobweb in front.  I knew that our paces were similar, I liked being with them and wanted to get to know them better, and I looked forward to our few days together.  We had only been separated earlier because they stayed in a hostel one night (a regular occurrence for thru-hikers, but not as frequent for section hikers, especially me).  It was fun to be able to hike with them all of Day 8 and Day 9.

Day 7, Gravel Springs Hut in Shenandoah Nat'l Park (18.6 mi)

Walking in the rain, setting up camp in the rain, or breaking camp in the rain- these activities are some of the most dismal for any long distance hiker.  In fact, after a few weeks to allow one's body to adjust to the physical exertion of hiking, I would say battling the elements is probably the number one issue for AT hikers.  Certainly, that was the case for me during my 3.5 week trek.  Dealing with wet gear and handling extreme variation in the weather were the two most serious issues for me.  I knew it was going to rain on Sunday, but the timing and extent was somewhat unknown.  I was up very early on Day 7 and out of the shelter by 7.00, which was good.
     I had a very good start on the day, about half of the miles hiked by 10.30, when I stopped in a shelter for a break.  During my breaks, i really like to take off my shoes and socks to let my feet breathe, eat something, and read something.  I had begun the process of gearing back up- putting on my socks and shoes, when I heard the sound of rain drops on the shelter.  Just pitter patter at first, but the rain had begun and did not give any signs of leaving.  Although I didn't take any pictures on Day 7, above is a picture from Day 8.  The frontal boundary completely stalled over the mountain, and the weather looked pretty much the same for Days 7-9.  The rain could have been much worse, but I was wet and the air temperature was quite cold.
     By the time I made it to the shelter, I had been walking in the rain for almost 3.5 hours.  I had barely stopped because there were no shelters (or any covering) during that time, and I was extremely cold.  Another issue with long distance hiking that people often overlook is logical thinking.  In this case, how one unpacks their gear when they arrive in the shelter is important, as I want to make sure the things that are dry stay dry as they come out of my pack.  It takes some concentration to keep these things dry and separate from the wet things.  I spent a couple of hours that afternoon in my sleeping bag just trying to warm up.

Day 6, 27 APR, Jim & Molly Denton Shelter (17.8 mi)

One of my favorite highlights of any AT trip is the array of wildflowers that often create a wonderful audience for hiking.  The continual beauty of a seeming infinite number of petite little flowers is almost arresting compared to our usual experience of well-placed and well-thought arrangements of flowers in civilization.  There are often so many flowers that I am astounded at Nature's apparent wastefulness. (Again, the weather was gorgeous but that was about to change.)  In particular on Day 6 was the trillium around Sky Meadows in VA.  I have seen trillium in the Smokies on several occasions, but I was pleasantly surprised to see the white, three-petalled flower that holds a nice balance of simplicity and beauty.  There were both white (common to me) and pink trillium on that day.  Because it was a weekend day, there were many day hikers with large cameras to take pictures of the trillium.  It was the talk of the trail on Day 6.

Day 6 also marked the over-halfway point of the hike.  I usually plan my mileage conservatively, so there is always the possibility of feeling better than expected and hiking more efficiently than originally intended.  I started thinking about trying to finish early, getting home to family, and the satisfaction of completing the section in a shorter amount of time than planned.  There is an added sense of accomplishment in carrying out the section hike in a shorter amount of time than planned.  It's not that I don't enjoy being outdoors or that I'm somehow "ready to come home."  Again, it's that element of pushing oneself, and if pushing oneself means that I get to come home earlier than intended, then "Good on ya, Mate!"  Jim and Molly Denton shelter was especially nice, but unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures.  I met this interesting section hiker, Tony Tiger, who was now in his 50s but had thru-hiked the trail earlier in life.  What struck me as we continued to talk was the confusion in his life about he and his wife actually got divorced.  There are lots of divorcees on the trail, in fact way over half of the folks older than 40 are divorcees, re-married, etc.  I guess what hit home for me was that thru-hiking the trail is not my life right now; it is not who I am.  Good food for thought.
    Sky Meadows State Park (not to be confused with Big Meadows campground, which was my endpoint) was an interesting place.  Sadly, the main visitor's center was located over 1 mile off of the AT.  For better and for worse, most AT'ers are unwilling to visit any sight that is more than 0.3 mile from the main path of the AT.  It may seem ironic that someone who is hiking thousands of miles is unwilling to hike more than 0.3 from the AT.  However, I think it speaks to the plethora of amazing things located right on the Trail.  Why hike off the Trail to see something that is only "just as interesting" as that which is directly on the AT.  For most, it's a no-brainer, follow the white blazes. (the white paint marks, called blazes, mark the path of the AT. You can actually see a white blaze on the tree in the picture at the top of Day 6.)

Day 5, 26 APR, The Rollercoaster and Rod Hollow Shelter (17.5 mi)

There are many talked about sections of the AT and Day 5 contained the much talked about Rollercoaster, a 13.5 mile stretch of ups and downs, that was a marked difference from the rolling and nicely graded terrain of MD and WV.  I was a bit apprehensive but there was another nice surprise awaiting me on Day 5, a beautiful skyscape.  I stopped for a small break and just happened to look up.  The way the blue of the sky, the greens of the newly budding trees, and the trickling of the stream caught my attention in a fresh way.  The picture to the right probably doesn't capture it, but it was arresting in a delightfully surprising way.  It broke up the seeming monotony of the ups and downs of the Rollercoaster.  Another great day on the AT; it is the surprise of the scenery on the AT that is most delightful.  The tiring nature of the walking heightens the beauty that is consistently and readily available.  Here are

the pictures from my conquering of the Rollercoaster.  Rod Hollow Shelter was a nice place to land for two people that I met:  one, Lynn Rimmel, from Montana has a friend that publishes children's books and was especially interested in my stars book; and two was a thru hiker from N. GA named Arrowhead with whom we shared good memories of the Nantahala Gorge.

Day 4, 25 APR, Harper's Ferry and Blackburn Center (18.6 mi)

Trail Towns (towns through which the AT actually passes) are a real highlight on the AT.  Not only do they provide the opportunity to pick up food easily, for me I prefer mail drops (packages mailed to myself containing mostly food), but they also provide the opportunity for food not easily obtained (or carried) on the trail.  Harper's Ferry, WV, is probably the most talked about trail town (at least from a historical perspective) because it is known as the "emotional or psychological halfway point of the AT."  Having never visited HF, I was especially excited since it would be a new place to visit.  To the left is the walk into HF along the historic C & O canal path.  Plus, who wouldn't want to arrive at the emotional halfway point of the Trail.
     One disadvantage of a Trail Town (TTs) is the amount of time spent not hiking.  TTs are often places that bog-down thru hikers because they present too much of the life once lived by the thru hiker.  Hostels, restaurants, and other conveniences cause hikers to linger, sometimes to great detriment.  It seems like TTs always cause me to spend about twice the amount of time I plan, and HF was no exception.  HF is a TT rich in Civil War history, as well as AT history, since it was the location of John Brown's rebellion as well as the international boundary between the Confederate States of America and the Union.  I really felt like one could spend a day or two soaking in all of the history HF has to offer.  There is a significantly preserved "old town" to HF, filled with rich buildings and museums.  To the right is a snapshot of the historic main street of old HF.
    After picking up my food at the post office, mailing back some trinkets acquired at the AT Conservancy (ATC) headquarters, registering my section thru hike, and grabbing a piece of NY style pizza, I still had quite a bit of hiking before arriving at my
intended destination, Blackburn AT center.  It was a long afternoon as it was a rather hot day, and it is always hard to make time after noon with a full pack of mail dropped food (5 days worth for me) and a full stomach of pizza (or other TT foods).  I had picked up a Backpacker's Pantry Indian meal (considered high-class cuisine on the AT) so I was pretty encouraged to get to my end point.  Plus at Blackburn there was an unlimited supply of already filtered water, which is always nice.  The attendant at Blackburn actually offered me a sprite, which was a nice addition to the BP meal I picked up earlier.  It was a nice end to a long day and I ate and slept well. :)
   The morning at Blackburn provided another nice sunrise directly from my tent pad, which provided a great incentive to get started on the new day into the great state of VA.

Day 3, 24 April, Ed Garvey Shelter (16.6 mi)

I was fairly impressed with the number of excellent sites in Washington Co., MD.  Not only do they have the REAL Washington monument (see to the left), built about 75 years before the one in DC, but they also have some very interesting historical buildings and sites.  I think that is one of the best things about hiking the AT in a state that I have not visited- I really feel like I have learned a lot about that state.  This was certainly true for WV, MD, and PA.  It was just a great day for hiking, and the day was broken up by the different places to visit.
      To the right is a neat little stone chapel that I passed. Apparently a very wealthy lady in the area had it built because she didn't want to travel into town to worship.  When she died the building sat vacant for some time, and then was sold to folks who do weddings and receptions.  It is no longer a church.
   Another interesting place that the AT runs pass is the Civil War Correspon- dents Monument, which is located where the battle of South Mtn took place.  This civil war battle was one of only a few offensive attacks by Lee and the Confederates.  The monument paid honor to those women and men who gave their lives informing the public about the war and its effects on the local residents.  The monument is actually about 30-40 feet tall and the names of all the correspondents are written into the edifice.
  Regardless of the number of wonderful views and sites that are present on any given day of hiking, it always relieving to see the shelter.  In particular this afternoon, there was a predicted shower so it is nice to make the shelter before the rain.  I spent the afternoon speaking with a couple from Fort Jackson in Columbia, SC.  I also met two of my future south-bounding friends, Cobweb and Magnolio.  Here is a view of the shelter, and then the sunrise on the following morning.

          

Day 2, 23 April, Pine Knob Shelter (MD), 13.5 miles

This was the first AT section hike for which I did extensive training.  I began walking with a pack and taking a fully loaded pack into the Y (when it was raining) about 3 weeks before the actual hike.  I can certainly affirm the usefulness of pre-emptive training, especially for my knees by lunging and hopping intermittently (thank you, Backpacker magazine).  It usually takes me 5 days to feel trail savvy, and with the exercise I cut that time in half.  Plus, I never really obtained that deep lactic soreness in my thighs and hamstrings. Those things make for happy hikers! :)
It is always odd to me that the AT can be SO remote at times (like this pic from Raven Rock cliffs), and yet also be so stinking close to civilization.  At Pine Knob, we were less than a mile from I-70 (nice traffic hum) and there was another hiker who was listening to Pandora's "stand-up comedian" channel.  In those moments, I'm glad I packed a tent although I really didn't escape the interstate noise.

Day 1, Appalachian Trail (AT) Across the Mid-Atlantic, MD-WV-VA

    During the months of April and May this year, I was graciously released by my family to spend 24 days on the AT.  The planned trips were to send me over 370 miles, 4 states, and put me at about 60% of the entire trail.  What is it about the AT that is so attractive?  For me, it is partially the opportunity to be completely consumed in physical activity, pushing oneself to the boundary of physical and emotional limits, and the challenge of setting a lofty goal to attain. In retrospect, the AT provides seemingly unbounded time to reflect, ruminate, ponder, and pray.  It also provides the opportunity to visit places that I have never spent time (WV, MD, and PA).  I learn things about the places traveled on the AT that I would never learn staying in motels, visiting well-known cities, etc.  It is a gritty, well-worn knowledge that is obtained, and in some ways it is more valuable and lasting than easily-obtained knowledge.
In some ways, one has no idea of what is ahead when a journey is begun, even though I've hiked the AT several times.  Here I stand at PenMar mark beginning the first of 24 days on the AT- innocent and somewhat aloof.  As my dad dropped me off, we shared a short prayer, the kind of prayer that I now pray for my son, and I was off for a short 4.5 mile walk to Raven Rock, MD.  Excited, nervous, and unsure of what to expect, I set out for my first 10 day adventure- PenMar Park, PA to Big Meadow Campground, VA.